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EL HIGUERON, Peru – Carlos Cruz Chanta lives just off a rutted dirt road, almost lost in the mist, outside this village on a steep ridge of jungle-covered mountains. Like his neighbors, he makes his living raising livestock and growing corn, fruit, beans, and coffee.

Some of the most remarkable vintages that fortified winemaker David Guimaraens has brought to market emerged not from his cellars but from those of his neighbors along Portugal’s Douro River.