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How to Lose a Loyal Diner

I've had several good meals at The Ten Bells, a well-reviewed wine bar in Manhattan's Lower East Side over the last couple years. Dark and cozy and decorated with empty wine bottles and chalkboards that display that day's menu, the food is simple and delicious—tapas like papas bravas, albondigas, and creamy brandade, as well as excellent charcuterie (duck rillettes!) and cheeses.

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